皮头
出自台球百科
台球杆皮头（又称枪头） 粘在台球杆前端, 是用优质皮革制成， 质量好坏直接影响到击球。 皮头富有弹性，可以控制击球时的撞击力， 同时防止打滑。击三四次球之后为了防止打滑， 应在皮头上擦涂壳粉。 皮头要不时修整打磨， 以使之处于最佳状态。
目录 |
皮头的发明
球杆的皮头是谁发明改进的呢？现有两种传说：一种是，到十九世纪初所用的秃头球杆是一驻印度的法国士兵明夸特，在他受处罚时，强制长时间被迫练习中，他发现木制球杆的秃头不好用，便在秃杆头上加一块皮头，经过试用效果很好，便开始推广了。
另一种说法是：皮革头是由法国台球名手米佳发明的，并在英国又发明了巧克粉，可以防止球杆击球滑杆。台球所用的“球”也有一段发展过程。最早使用的台球，是用木材或黄铜做的，后来受印度象牙装饰品和高级用具的启发，因此象牙也被选用做台球材料了。一只象牙可以做五个球，根据当时需要估计，每年要有万余头大象的牙才能解决，用量之大实在可观。由于台球质量要求高，圆度要圆，每个球的重量要求要同，因受产品合格率的影响，价格昂贵，只能供王室贵族少数人享用，严重的阻碍台球运动的普及与发展。
皮头的分类
皮头的主要品牌
国产皮头品牌
国外皮头品牌
- 蓝钻(Brunswick Blue Diamond)
- 鹿头(Tweeten’s Elk Master Tips)
- Mike SuperTips
- Moori
- O'MIN
- Master
- Talisman
- Kamui(卡姆)
- 鹿耳岛
- TRIANGLE(三角)
- 英国米字皮头
- M1皮头
- 铁塔皮头
皮头的安装
1、用刀片切掉保护皮头，露出铜箍和木头。
2、用锉刀（或砂纸建议用砂纸）修整，使铜箍和木头的端面在同一平面内。
3、用沙纸研磨端面及皮头低平面。
4、用刀片刮取适量胶水，均匀地涂在端面和皮头的低平面上。
5、用固定器将皮头固定在球杆上。如果没有固定器可用硬器轻轻击打杆头；或将球杆立起，垂直向下用皮头轻击地面。
6、打磨皮头，打磨到自己想要的厚度，外形就可以了，安装皮头就完成了。
更换皮头视频演示：
http://www.mysnooker.cn/bbs/topic16564.html
Tips
Leather tips of varying degrees of shapes and hardness are affixed to the ferrule. The standard shapes for a tip are nickel and dime, determined by shaping a tip so that when one puts a nickel or dime to it, they are the same curvature. Quarter-shaped tips are less common, though are usually used for breaking cues because less curvature means less accidental spin and more accuracy for a straight shot such as the break.
Rounder tips impart English (more colloquially known as spin) more easily since the point of contact between a tip and the cue ball requires less distance from the center hit to do the same amount of spin due to the increased tangential contact. Tips are sometimes made of harder materials such as phenolic resin because it is favored upon for a break cue (Breaks usually require less spin, thus less round harder tips preserve the shape of the tip longer without sacrificing the effectiveness of the break).
The tip end of the cue will vary in diameter but is typically in the 11 to 14 millimeter ('mm') range with 13 mm for pool cues being most common and 9.5 mm for Snooker cues being most common.
A leather tip naturally compresses and hardens with subsequent shots. Without proper care, the surface of the tip can develop an undesired smoothness or glossiness which can significantly reduce the desired friction between the tip and the cue ball. Cue chalk is applied to the tip of the cue, ideally after every shot, to help achieve the desired friction and minimize the chance of a miscue. This is especially important when the cue tip does not hit the cue ball in its center and thereby imparts spin to the cue ball.
There are different grades of hardness for tips, ranging from very soft to very hard. Softer tips like "Elk Master" hold chalk better, but tend to degrade faster from abrasion (from chalk and scuffers), shaping (from cue tip shapers/tackers/picks), and mushrooming (from normal use or hard hits that compact the tip from all directions). Harder tips like "Triangle" and "Le Professional" ("Le Pro") maintain their shape much better, but because of their hardness, chalk tends to not hold as well as it does on softer tips. The hardness of a leather tip is determined from its compression and tanning during the manufacturing process.
All cue tips once were of a one-piece construction, like "LePro" or "Triangle". More recently some tips are made of layers that are laminated together, like "Moori" and "Talisman". Harder tips and laminated tips hold their shape better than softer tips and one-piece tips. Laminated tips generally cost more than one-piece tips due to their more extensive manufacturing process. A potential problem with laminated tips is delamination, where a layer begins to separate from another or completely comes apart. Delamination is not common and usually results from improper installation, misuse of tip tools, or high impact masse' shots. One-piece tips are not subject to this problem, but they do tend to mushroom more easily, which is when the sides of the tip bulge out.
